Tuesday 14 February 2023

Atlantic Crossing abandoned - failure or a journey? A love story?

Valentine's Day…it has been 1 year since I arrived in Carriacou and started an adventure or project shall we call it, on Cariad an inanimate object which I do, mostly, love. Most things come back to a story about love. The word love. The feeling of love. The love of adventure, a love of trying something new, a love for passion, a love for spending time with your partner. In Welsh, Cariad means Love in. How fitting.

 Did we fail?

 It's always hard to talk about failures. It's like an allergic response humans develop. I am taking this failed trip as a learning curve. It has taken me a year to even think about writing this blog. Maybe we didn't even fail? Yes, we failed the main mission of not crossing the wild Atlantic and bringing Cariad home to Glencoe, but we achieved so much to get to the point of even trying to cross, being mad enough to try and then get close, so close to achieving our goal.


 People will always have an opinion about it, but how could anyone know what we really went through and how we were feeling without being there? What decisions would other people have made that could have made it happen? Would people even have tried? What matters is that we did it our way. We have had so many discussions with friends and family on our return and we know we made the right decision. I must say our friends and family agreed and have been amazing. The hardest was talking to my dad about it because he was so confident we could have done it. I did remind him though that if we would have crossed, yes a Sadler is technically unsinkable but we could have crossed the Atlantic after being rescued from being sat upside down on a floating hull. 

It has taken me a whole year to process this project because it has been hectic, returning to the grind. As soon as we returned from the Caribbean, I took out a loan and flew straight out to Nepal and mountain biked the Annapurna. I needed to push myself because I had not achieved my goal and I was stressed about when I was going to get another month off. Al was also off to climb Denali with Ali so he had his distraction. I needed an adventure replacement. Afterward, I was into my last month (May 22) at SAMS (I have given pre-notice on Feb 22) followed by moving straight into a new job (signed the contract in the Carriacou Marina), a new job which unfortunately does not allow me to network and use social media due to client contracts in the way I enjoy, so this blog has taken a backseat for the first time since I started it in 2015. 

 Recap, what were we trying to do?


 Check out my first blog I wrote a year ago in January 2022 about how we came to the journey of trying to cross the Atlantic in a boat called Cariad!

Everything is about mindset. Al and I are pretty good about talking to each other, discussing everything from all angles, creating positive and negative charts, and trying to be pragmatic with Al balancing out my chaos. Al and I went in with the mindset that if we couldn't get Cariad ready to go we would return home. The difficult thing was that we did get Cariad ready to go. We ticked all of the things off on our spreadsheet, we launched, and we kept on fixing and improving her as we went. Before last year we sailed Cariad in 2019 when we went on holiday to meet Tony, so we knew she would need time, however, the pandemic added two years of Cariad sitting in the water bobbing about not doing much. We tried to factor in the jobs needed to compensate for what UV damage happens over time in the Caribbean. Even though we went in with the healthy mindset that we could fail, we didn't give in easily.

 So, what happened? Why did we decide to not cross the Atlantic in Cariad?

 After a test sail from Carriacou to Martinique to pick up Harry and fix various problems. We all decided that we would give it a go. All the major jobs were complete, Cariad was sailing well, and we were physically and mostly mentally prepared. We all had our own trepidations. We were about to sail an old boat across the Atlantic, we had lots of issues from rigging, leaks, electrics, and a few other things to keep us on our toes so we were all on high alert. We sailed from Martinique and pulled into the North part of the island to top up with some water and freshies. Then we gave it a go. After a long morning of sailing just as we were starting to get into it, dolphins surrounded us giving us a show. At the same time, the wind became fluky. We were just at the end of the headland of Martinique, and we decided to get the engine started to swing us around the headland so that we didn't need to do a tack which would set us offline straight from the outset. With the wind vane autopilot on, Harry and I were completely distracted by the dolphins, trying to get a good photo and work out what species they were. There was no one else around us, just Cariad humming across the waves whilst the dolphins played around us. Al brought us back to reality by saying that the engine would not start. With it going dark soon and a quick downwind sail back to the anchorage we had come from, after trying to get the engine started, we decided to do some investigation back at the anchorage. 

Even though we could cross the Atlantic without an engine, we wanted the engine. There were forecasted light patches across the Azores high so we wanted the engine to move across that and not bob about as we had a tight schedule. Our engine was also a safety feature, if anyone went overboard we wanted to be able to get back to that person quickly and efficiently and that meant having the engin. Yes me and Al could and have practiced a lot about how to get a person back under sail but Harry had not and the risk increases without an engine. We headed back to the anchorage to try and diagnose the issue. This is not why we decided not to go.

We worked out that the starter motor was dead. Yes, we tried whacking it and a few other tricks, but it was dead. Dad gave us a few tricks for hand-cranking Cariad the way him and Tony used to. With such an old engine that had been covered in seawater a few times, it was tough going and only Al could hand crank the engine. Harry managed it once, but I was just not quite strong enough. I even tried to lube up the handle to help the movement but no. We at least we had the engine. The electrics were also a bit intermittent with the solar panel charging, so Al worked tirelessly all day to see if he could make it more reliable which he did. 

I always believe everything comes in three so add to our disasters… I hear a bang. A bang that was separate to the boom that just flew across the deck. I had a look around the cockpit and saw my phone cable hanging off the deck. Crap. I jump out of the cockpit and look for Al’s solar charger, one of the last remaining bits of technology we have for charging equipment. My phone was one of our backup navigation systems, I was also using it for podcasts, audible, music and so much more. It’s got to be on the boat. Crap. I jump straight off the boat (we were at anchor in the bay at this point) with my mask and snorkel to search around the boat for it. It is a waterproof phone; I know what I am like, I think. “Al, can you pass me my fins I forgot them I shout.” I go for a bit of a dive and realise its 10 m of water depth here, “Argh Al, actually please can you jump in too, help!” I half gargle. “Why? What can you see?” I think wow I wish I was showing him a turtle or something, that would be way less stressful. As I think this, I hilariously spot a turtle munching on some seagrass, moving around the ocean seafloor with no care in the world. I come back up to the surface for a breath, “I... have dropped my fricking phone!” I managed to dive down and retrieve the phone. 

The phone died...it was no longer waterproof as the charging plug has been undone for charging it. I was stressed at this point, with a bit of nav equipment down and my entertainment for when on watch gone. I had also not packed a good camera.

 After a day of disasters and fixing, we had a chat and decided to give it another go. A few other things happened, and we were starting to feel really unsure if Cariad would make it across safely. Everything just felt a bit old and tired. The UV kills stuff so quickly. All I could think about was if the wind vane hit something and broke or a sail ripped, my mind was in disaster mode. I tried to change this mindset quick. I had scenario planning in my mind but it was better to keep a positive attitude and think about all the things that could go right.

 We had an incredible few days of sailing, between me and Harry being seasick. After 2 days we got into a routine of trying to eat well, all relax whilst listening to Dune on the speaker and trying to hide from the sun and rotating watches. The night watches were incredible with just the moon lighting up the sail, the wind vane keeping us on course to the Azores. I couldn't wait to get there and go for a snorkel!

 Risk?

A quick thought about risk. Everyone has a different threshold for risk. For me the risk needs to be justified, there needs to be a bit of risk for me when adventuring. My friend Christine gave me a book to read before I left which was called Deep Survival by Laurence Gonzales I also read so many books on people that had fallen overboard and survived. Risk as a group is a different thing entirely. There were 3 of us on this adventure and all the people back at home watching us from afar. Effectively me and Al felt responsible for each other and Harry, we were in this together and we all had to be happy with the risks involved. I probably felt even more responsible as this had been my idea after Tony had left me Cariad. The crux was, we all needed to be happy with the risks involved.

 Why did we decide to not cross the Atlantic in Cariad continued…

This is an extract from the book I have started to write about Cariad (let's call it a coping mechanism for losing both Tony and Cariad), we will see if I ever finish it and get it published…

It was the middle of the day, and I was trying to get a nap in-between my watch. I am desperately trying to sleep against this lee cloth that I spent a whole morning making just weeks before. With the cushion on the bunk and my bulbous , it will not hold me if a big wave lurches the boat over, I think to myself. A lee cloth is designed to hold you on your bunk, so you don’t fall out of bed. I had just drifted off when I woke to Al bailing out the engine bay. No, no, no, not again. “Al, what’s happening?” He does not reply straight away, which stresses me out. I jump out of bed, “Do you need us?” A quick response this time, “Yes.” I have realised when a situation is getting worse, it’s easier to ask less questions, fit in where you can, and if you have to ask a question to make it quick and simple. Harry jumps up out of bed too. Al’s bailing is frustrating me, so slow. I take over bailing so he can check the stern gland. We were a few days from land, I felt sick at the thought of if our stern tube had failed again like the time me and Al were on holiday on Cariad, but this time we were the owners, we were responsible and we still hadn’t fitted an electric bilge. It was a repeat of before except we had Harry to jump around and get items. Harry was out in the cockpit trying to find the best way to get the bilge empty and Al had stripped Harry’s bed and was trying to get into the back of the engine bay. “It’s not the stern gland, the water is coming from further back” Al's muffled tones seep through the engine bay. I realise at the same time that the water level has gone down in the engine bay. I am happy that we are not sinking, well quickly anyway but that we have a big leak. Harry and Al begin to empty the stern locker whilst I continue to bail. “This is a shit system.” Al is angry and frustrated. I don’t think I have seen him like this before. So much had gone wrong just these last few days that it was suddenly all feeling impossible.

There were a few other things that had gone wrong, but it was time. It was time to call it. We had leaks coming in from a few places. The stand for the drying out legs was pouring water onto the bookshelf, this had absorbed the drips for a few weeks so we had not noticed, we didn’t notice until Al’s boxers were wet one day as it had leaked onto his bed. Would it drip into the electrics on the other tack? Our comms for getting the weather and charging could be so easily get damaged. Especially without having an engine that was easy to start to help charge things. There were too many unknowns and things we racking up quickly. We decided to turn around and head to Bermuda. We still didn’t give up. After a day of catching up on sleep. We tried to do a few fixes to sort out the leaks. We dried everything out. We realised we were done. Mostly mentally. It was time to go and have a holiday and decompress after calling a stop to our project. We headed to Guadeloupe to come up with a plan.

Harry using scissors to trim his beard ready to see his girlfriend Helena. 

 What happened to Cariad?

The other reason that I have not been able to speak or really process the Cariad trip is that I have been in so much debt since we decided to leave Cariad in Antigua with a broker and my pal. I have only just got out of the debt. It was all my choice, so I have not let it consume me. When we sold Xarifa in 2020, I put the money straight into Premium bonds so that I would not spend it and save it for the trip. All my savings went into this trip and Al contributed 10 % towards Cariad and more on the trip itself. I then took a loan out to go to Nepal, again no regrets. We tried to sell Cariad to top back up our savings but after a few months and with hurricane season approaching and with us being so far away, we were faced with having to spend over $500 a month to keep Cariad on the hard, it was also putting pressure on my old Uni Pal Louis who owns Dive Carib in Antigua to keep an eye on her for us. Luckily when we were in Antigua we hung out with Louis and all his pals taking part in the local pub quizzes, playing touch rugby and so much more. Thanks again so much Louis!!

 Out there we met Stef and Ruby who I approached over Facebook to see if they would be interested in taking Cariad on if we handed over the paperwork and gave it to them for free! Cariad has been on so many adventures and I wanted her to go on so many more, they had a big think about it and said yes which is super exciting because we can keep up to date with where Cariad goes next. The best thing is Cariad is anchored right next to the house they rent and they have time to put the love into Cariad that she needs and she makes a perfect boat for exploring around the Caribbean. All the issues we had, we mostly fixed, but you can’t fix age and the unknown. All Cariad needs is more time and attention. We had run out of both. I can’t wait to hear what they get up to or where or who she ends up next!

 What next?

I need to fall back in love with sailing and sailing with Al. We will see how that goes over the next few years and things come in threes right so wonder what our next boat will be called? 😜 Perhaps Yacht Gaol...

  

Well I did try to fall back in love with sailing with Mulligan and Doug during last summer when we sailed to the Isles of Scilly and back in their boat...yep didn't quite fall back into love but it was a start!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday 15 March 2022

Happy sailing - Mini refit, found Harry & heading to the Azores!

That is us heading to the Azores!

 We completed a major refit in Carriacou. We then sailed to Martinique to pick up our pal and crew Harry. The 110 nm sail took 38 hrs and I was sick for 24 of them. During the sail, Al noticed too much forward mast bend so we got a second opinion. We ended up doing a mini refit at Le Marin. Luckily North sails managed to fit us in and fit our dodger windows which broke on the sail (thanks to Highwatersails for the contact) and then the riggers at Cariabe Marine fitted us into the dock and the righers worked over the weekend to fix our forestay and change all stagelocks!  The rest of this blog contain some random photos from the last few weeks because I am writing this as we head along the West side of Martinique to then head to the Azores!
We have made Cariad our home!
Rigging ready to go on...the moment the forestay was cut too short.
We have had some chilled time to snorkel!

Spot Cariad! Le Marin was rammed with expensive boats.
The legend owner of the rigggers who sorted us out last minute.
When we left Carriacou the wind had too much North in it so we pulled into Union for a night for some dinner and a snorkel!
Happy sailing!
Harry settling on on board!
We bought a kayak to use instead of a dinghy! Such fun.
Al giving us an electronics lecture!
We have packed so much food onto Cariad!!!! Lots of sardines.
Beautiful.
I will post in a few weeks from the Azores!

Friday 4 March 2022

We are launched!

It has been a hectic few weeks. Everyone in the yard was as shocked as we were that we were ready to launch! 
With stern gland getting bedded,the furlex, GPS, and a few other things that we had to fix it has been a hectic day! 


Test sail tomorrow!!


 

Sunday 27 February 2022

Cariad refit at Carriacou Marine!


With Al’s Uncle Pete completing an epic two weeks of work on Cariad and me arriving during his second week we started to get through the job list. We have a long spreadsheet of jobs. We now have working electrics with the solar panels able to trickle charge the batteries, new alternator wired in and working, 3 lee cloths, sails are good with the main jib and storm jib getting check-in at InStiches, the hull was sanded back, epoxy added and two layers of antifoul added… There are so many other things like new anodes but now we are ready for the mast to go up and to get Cariad into the water. Hopefully, by the end of next week, we will be en route to Martinique to pick up our crew and pal Harry and also lots of yummy food. Fingers crossed that the job list stops getting longer and that it all comes together. 

Grinding the rusty chain off the anchor chain! Safety first kids...
Our hull made a beautiful abstract pattern...lots of expoxy use.

"It's a process."

A quote from Al earlier in the week from one of our debriefs. There is a process for the progress of the boat refit, a process of how we communicate, how we tackle a job...so many different processes. We debrief/couple debate over a beer on Tony's balcony most evenings after boat work to check the spreadsheet is on track and that we are working well together and communicating because without teamwork no adventure is possible! 

Someone definitely told me boating was a glamorous sport?!

Where are the G&Ts? Cleaning out our water tank. Tony retrofitted this and it's excellent, most of the time you can't get at the water tank on a yacht to clean it. #waterislife




Tony's beautiful balcony. Samuel has let us stay in Tony's house whilst we refit the boat. Its great to get away, reset and have a good nights sleep after a beer on the balcony.

InStiches in Carriaou, Andy is a great guy and is sorting us out after we found our spare jib is ripped and not reparable.



Gaaahh it is so annoying when paint gets somewhere where you don't want it haha
Our mast is ready to go up. Some new running rigging, new rigging wires and new tri colour light!
Measuring up...
Engine service!
Al's pit for the last week whilst he sorts out the electrics.
Randy is a bus driver that lives near us in Windward (Meldrum) and he regularly takes us about the place. His horn is very distinctive. 
Gus is an awesome guy. He has helped us so much over the last few weeks with odd jobs!
Al's Uncle Pete was an awesome workforce for the two weeks of the trip and really got us on track.
Flares as old as me!
Dead gas bottle....
Beautiful new bottles. Safety definitely first here kids.

Happy painting. Except when I am told I missed a bit :D

Happy that the beach is so close that I can cool off when I need to!
The stopcocks have been a nightmare! Finally sorted and rebedded. Vinegar works a treat!
Our commute to work - stunning.


 The Azores high is forming nicely. Hopefully, the jetstream sorts itself out so that the low-pressure systems stop being so aggressive, especially for the second part of the trip from the Azores to the UK! 






 



Thursday 20 January 2022

Crossing the Atlantic in Yacht Cariad - follow me & Al on this blog!

Two years ago my friend and mentor Tony died. He had cancer and decided not to take any treatment. My Dad Steve was friends with Tony for years and met through the flying world. When I was about 5, my Dad, Tony, and another family all bought a yacht together so that they could do their sailing qualifications and take family and friends sailing around Brixham and Dartmouth. Tony decided to go sailing around the world 15 years ago, so both families sold their share to Tony. Over the years we managed to sail with Tony. When he died we found out he had left Cariad for me in his will. The crazy chap.

Tony is the one on the left, then my Dad, me, my brother Dan and my mum Mary back in 2012 cruising with Tony on Cariad.

Tony going around the world!

This happened in Nov 2019, so Al and I planned and booked to fly out to the Caribbean where Tony had set up a life for himself and Cariad in March 2020. Yep, you guessed it...COVID hit and we were locked down. We didn't try in 2021 as we knew numbers would be high again after Christmas. So here we are in 2022 getting ready to fly out to Grenada and then catch a ferry to Carriacou. So the plan is to get out to the Caribbean and do a major refit. Al's Uncle Pete is flying out with Al in early Feb to help smash out part of the refit - legend. I'm flying out a week after that to give us an over lap because Al is doing two big expeds this year, the second one where in May he is climbing the Cassin on Denali in Alaska with our pal Ali Rose. 

Then if all is good and safe to go we will be setting off to Antigua in early April to do a big shakedown and test everything. We are then picking up our crew and pal for the first leg Harry!! We will then stock up with anything else we need in Antigua, then set off to the Azores for an exploration and holiday. 

My parents might come and say hey in the Azores, oh to be retired. With our extended leave (I have built up lots of leave over two years) Harry is then flying home and pal Emily Mulligan is flying in! Epic! If Al is getting stuck on time here if we get delayed, Al will also be flying home to go on his next exped. Then Azores back to the UK via Ireland to drop off Emily and swap her with my Dad and then sail Cariad back to Glencoe where there is a mooring waiting for us! 


Tony had a great friend called Paul who we got to know the last time we were out there, luckily he knows Cariad and is a surveyor so is helping us start the refit whilst we are stuck in the UK waiting to fly out. Cariad is out of the water, her hull has been pressure washed and an engineer Jeorg has checked out the engine. 

Cariad's rigging has been taken off and is being replaced. Yep, most of my savings are being used on this! When me and Al sold Yacht Xarifa (Sadler 25) that we used to own together (2017-2020) when I moved to Scotland and lived on her we are psyhed that Cariad is a Sadler 34 so the same make and big enough to stand up in woo. Al owns a percentage of Cariad so any work we are doing on her we are splitting on this epic adventure.
After all of this planning, I hope it all comes together and that we can leave the Caribbean and try and bring her home to Glencoe/Ballachulish and I will be smiling like in this picture!

We have had some epic spreadsheets, reading, and advice the last few years of planning this trip.


I can't go across the Atlantic without measuring something scientific. So after a great conversation with Laura who runs weswimwild and who I have been a waterlogger with and a microplastic "consultant" for the past two years, she has kindly donated some sampling kit...hopefully we don't find too much! The best bit is, is that I sampled from Glencoe source last year, so bringing Cariad back from the Caribbean to Glencoe we are going sea to source!!


Keeping in touch!

I will try and update this blog when I can! When we are on the two big crossings we will have a satphone which we will be using to track the weather and come up with some good routing. If you want to get in touch and email us a short message we will send out the email address nearer the time. The Fenton's have kindly let us borrow the RowAround Scotland spot tracker, so hopefully every day I will be updating our position from April! Thanks also to Goch for giving us loads of advice and helping us to buy some kit and also to Highwatersails who have given us some sail offcuts and other bits and pieces. 

Two skippers on a boat ...who are a couple...this is going to be some experience!! Don't worry we are going to be smiling just like this photo I am sure. :)